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Jetboating along the Waikato River.

Princes Gate Hotel.

POSTED: 29 DECEMBER 2011

Destination: Rotorua

MIKE SMITH discovers the spirit of a great New Zealand toursit spot.

The passage through the sharp rocky walls is particularly narrow, the wading waters, at knee high, tricky to unsuspecting hikers.

Yet these very waters are warm, thermally fed. And what lies ahead for our party of nature-loving sightseers is a mystery till the end — for everyone, that is, bar the guide.

“Stand sideways, take a deep breath and you will have little trouble passing through this section of canyon,” echoes the advice from tour leader Adam. “Make sure to take your time as there are some rocky ledges above as well as hidden below the water surface.”

Not surprisingly, this section of our “soft adventure” is referred to as The Squeeze, where caution is necessary to avoid an unceremonious bump on the head or a stabbed toe.

We are on a two-and-a-half-hour New Zealand Riverjet experience of North Island’s Waikato River, through the scenic Tutukau Gorge about 40 kilmoetres from Rotorua, and our 20-minute hike of the canyon ultimately leads us in supplied wetsuits and pairs of rubber sandals to two welcome waterfalls, and a photo session.

The journey began with a scenic jet-boat ride past abundant bird life, pine forests and steaming volcanic river banks, and culminated in a more thrill-seeking play on the open-air jet boat that Adam aptly christened The Beast.

To have the chance to experience such an adventure in such a natural sanctuary is one of many highlights of holidaying in this special corner of New Zealand.

Rotorua, with its thermal springs, gushing geysers, bubbling mud pools and expansive lake formed by a massive volcanic eruption, may present an unpleasant sulphur pong but it is not on the nose when it comes to bringing in tourists.

Judging by the lakeside centre’s generous sprinkling of hotels, motels and backpacker accommodation, tourism is big business that has the cash registers tinkling all year round. The number of annual visitors far outnumbers the 75,000-plus population and generates much needed jobs for the locals.

As we found out during the 2011 annual general meeting of the Australian Society of Travel Writers, it doesn’t take long to find a reason or two to visit.

Activities range from bushwalking to white-water rafting, cycling to adventure kayaking, riding on a gondola to sledging, even a spot of fishing for trout, with or without the help of a guide.

The jet-boating experience is merely one of a host of things to do and see, and keep the guests busy during a stay.

Firstly, there’s Te Puia on the town’s outskirts, where guests are welcomed in the customary Maori fashion, nose-to-nose, before learning about local customs and traditions, and watching artists at work weaving and carving wood and gemstones.

Up the hill is the giant geyser Pohutu (Big Splash), nature at its fiery best, where giant jets of water are naturally propelled into the air more than 20 times a day.

Take a 20-minute drive from Rotorua and you can marvel over perhaps the most sought-after hot spot in the region, the thermal wonderland known as Wai-O-Tapu ... sacred waters famous for its Lady Know Geyser (daily eruptions), New Zealand’s largest mud pool, the world famous Champagne Pool with its natural bubbles, and a series of hot and cold water pools, one coloured a garish green.

Time soon passes on an escorted walk around the stunning geothermal, moonscape-like sanctuary, thousands of years in the making and very much a major tourist drawcard in the 21st century.

Another drive from town is to the historic Buried Village of Te Wairoa, sensationally submerged by the eruption of Mt Tarawera in 1886 and New Zealand’s version of Pompeii. Located close to the shore of Lake Tarawera, this prime attraction, with its fascinating excavated ruins, has a small museum that traces the events leading up to the eruption which killed around 120.

For a place to play and dine with a breathtaking bird’s eye view of Rotorua, take the gondola to the Skyline summit of dominating Mt Ngongotaha. Here, you can take on a luge (toboggan on wheels) ride down the hill on a racing circuit or, for the more daring, swing on a sky swing, where you are airborne and travelling at up to 120 kilometres per hour.

A novel way to dine at night is on board one of 10 gondolas as they move up and down the side of the mountain. Each cabin has been fitted out with custom-built tables to cater for up to four guests, the four-course evening meal worth the experience for $NZ95 each.

Wherever we explore, whether it is along the shore of the lake or in the stunning richly farmed surrounds, the more enlightening a Rotorua visit becomes.

As the locals are quick to impress, come and stay and “feel the spirit”.

Jetboat guide Adam.

Maori welcome at Te Puia.

Statue in the gardens around Old Government House.

Princes Gate Hotel.

Te Puia.

Lady Know Geyser at Wai-O-Tapu.

ABOUT ROTORUA:

Getting there: Air New Zealand has a limited number of direct flights a week between Sydney and Rotorua. Alternatively, fly to Auckland, followed by a three-to-four-hour drive south. Details: Air New Zealand, www.airnewzealand.com.au.

Accommodation: Ranges from camping grounds and backpacker-style accommodation to motels and international hotels. Princes Gate Hotel is centrally located on Arawa St near the old and magnificent Government House, gardens and Blue Swimming Baths and Polynesian Spa. The restored and lovingly decorated 19th-century hotel has a wrap-around veranda, stained glass windows and furnishings and decorations from yesteryear — with a few mod cons. It began life in the mining town of Waihi, once the third largest settlement in NZ, only to fall victim to alcohol prohibition (women could vote and swayed for the prohibition to occur). Eventually moved to Rotorua to serve as a hotel for the growing numbers of tourists, the Princes Gate is in the hands of Brett and Vlasta Marvelly who have owned and operated the hotel since 1986. Details, www.princesgate.co.nz.

Information: For attractions, activities and other tourist aspects, Destination Rotorua Marketing (www.rotoruanz.com) or Tourism New Zealand (www.newzealand.com).