OZ BABY BOOMERS: TRAVEL

POSTED: 27 DECEMBER 2010

Destination: Queensland's Reef to Outback

JANE HODGES* enjoys a track less travelled.

Rising from the deep in a flourish of bubbles I'm barely able to keep from squealing. But opening your mouth underwater isn’t a smart move, no matter how excited you are!

I've just surfaced from duck-diving five metres to snorkel with an endangered Loggerhead Turtle on her graceful flight through the aquamarine waters of Lady Musgrave Island’s coral gardens. There’s only one word for the feeling. Delight.

Lady Musgrave is a pristine coral atoll on the southern end of Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef, and I’m two days into an amazing and relatively unknown journey dubbed The Reef to the Outback. It’s a touring route that combines adventure via air, sea, road and rail, linking two of the state’s iconic natural wonders — the Great Barrier Reef and the wide open spaces of the ruggedly beautiful Outback.

Delight is a thought that comes to mind many times during my six days on the road. Each day brings new and interesting possibilities, people and places, pieces of history and most importantly a refreshed wonder about life that comes with discovering the unknown.

The route is all via sealed road and can easily be done as a self-guided fly-drive from Bundaberg, Gladstone or Rockhampton — or, as I did, with a group and the help of local tour operators.

Paul Blampied, from TQ Tours, met us at Gladstone airport and looked after us like family (complete with practical jokes) for three days around Agnes Water and The Town of 1770.

Here we had a taste of the beach holiday of old combined with a range of adventures. The simple pleasures of unspoiled beaches, swimming, surfing, fishing, sailing and beach walks are enough for some, but you can also learn to snorkel or dive off Lady Musgrave Island with Lady Musgrave Barrier Reef Cruises; cruise on land and then on water with the dolphins on the Larc, a go-anywhere amphibious vessel; hoon around town (responsibly!) on a 50cc Scooteroo motorbike that’s been modified and painted up to look like a mini Harley Davidson; learn to surf or sea kayak with 1770 Liquid Adventures; or buzz the Bustard Head lighthouse and land on Aircraft Beach on a thrill flight with Bruce Rhoades from Agnes Water 1770 Flying School.

Queensland Rail's superbly comfortable Spirit of the Outback train took us overnight from the coast at Miriamvale to Longreach. After being rocked gently to sleep we woke to breakfast in the dining car watching the red landscape and the roos as we forged deeper into the vastness.

Alan Smith, of Outback Aussie Tours — who surely must be the happiest man in the world — met us at the station and became our guide and guru, relating local history, myths and legends, and more than one tall story during our three days together. How he loves a city slicker audience!

We began by dusting ancient dinosaur bones, something anyone can do for a day or three months, if you have the interest and the time, at the Australian Age of Dinosaurs. It’s a non-profit, volunteer science-and-education initiative which is painstakingly piecing together Winton’s dinosaur finds.

The highlight for me was an overnight stay with the Phillott family at Carisbrooke, a working sheep-and-cattle station about half an hour south-west of Winton. The red mesa “jump up” landscape is enthralling and you shouldn’t miss the trek to Python Gorge to see Aboriginal rock art. The contrast of red rock, shady gums and beautifully preserved art was a real treat — one of those things words can’t capture, and one that not too many people have experienced.

If you’re looking for more wow factor, a visit to Lark Quarry Dinosaur Track — site of the world’s only recorded dinosaur stampede — is the place to head. Here you’ll see hundreds of 100-million-year-old dinosaur footprints preserved in rock formed from mud that once bordered a prehistoric lake.

History is everywhere but there are four must-dos to gain an appreciation for those who pioneered this vast land: Winton’s Waltzing Matilda Centre, which traces the life of Banjo Patterson and the story behind the famous ballad; taking a ride on the restored Cobb & Co Coach at Winton; the Australian Stockman's Hall of Fame, which brings to life the hardship, innovation and enduring spirit of the Outback’s men and women; and the Qantas Founders Outback Museum, which tells the story of the birth of Australia’s airline.

A sunset dinner cruise on the MV Longreach Explorer, followed by billy tea and damper, campfire yarns and guitar sing-a-long with Alan and his mates on the bank of the Thompson River, was a great way to finish our amazing Reef to Outback tour.

It’s certainly a track less travelled. What are you waiting for?

*Jane Hodges wrote this article on behalf of Tourism Queensland.

WHEN TO GO

The Reef to the Outback can be travelled year round, with March to November the coolest time to visit.

GETTING AROUND

Paul Blampied, TQ Tours — www.tqtours-australia.com

Spirit of the Outback — www.traveltrain.com.au

Alan Smith, Outback Aussie Tours — www.oat.net.au

WHERE TO STAY

Mantra Pavilions Mirage on 1770 — www.pavillionsresort.com.au

Carrisbrooke Station — www.carisbrooketours.com.au

Albert Park Motor Inn Longreach — www.albertpark-longreach.com.au