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POSTED: 18 AUGUST 2010
Destination: Japan
Lyn Tan discovers a super city within Tokyo ... and swears she'll be back
I sigh delightedly as my behind rests on the gently heated seat.
I’m in an automated water closet in the Mercure Ginza Hotel, right in the heart of Tokyo’s exclusive Ginza district. It’s my first taste of Japan and I’m already in love with the country. I have a good feeling that I’m going to be spoilt on a whole new level.
The Mercure Ginza is conveniently located behind the district’s main shopping strip and just a stone’s throw from the famous Ginza crossing. As I people watched while waiting to check-in earlier, there were plenty of designer labels in evidence.
With the likes of Louis Vuitton, Cartier and Tiffany beckoning from Ginza Chome, I’m keen to get going ... but first I’m determined to get acquainted with the buttons on the water closet. I sample what each button does with air and water, and then I’m ready to go.
My first impression of Tokyo’s cityscape is Manhattan injected with a dose of European charm and architecture, topped with unmistakably Japanese culture and customs.
The East-meets-West cliché is amplified in Tokyo, where the streets that have you feeling like you’re in NYC can suddenly meet a shrine in a park.
As home to 13 million people, Tokyo is genuinely a super city. Everything is super efficient, super convenient and, very importantly to the locals, super cute.
I sample some districts of Tokyo including Shinjuku (electronic heaven by day, a stereotyped Kings Cross equivalent by night), Akihabara (where gaming enthusiasts worship Japanese animation characters), Asakusa (for a taste traditional Japan and some craft shopping), Shibuya (for some teenage high-street culture) and Roppongi (where I mingle with English speaking expats).
And noone should miss Harajuku, a shopping district with a dress-up party theme that attracts those who enjoy bringing their fantasies to life. Girls batting Betty Boop lashes prancing in elaborate colonial wigs and Madame Pompadour dresses are a common sight, as are goths, vampires and cowgirls.
Clearly, Tokyo has districts to serve the needs and whims of every personality.
I move away from the dress-up-party streets and gravitate towards Omotesando, Aoyama, Marunouchi and of course, my temporary home, the classy Ginza.
Omotesando and Aoyama are highly trendy areas described as Tokyo’s version of the Champs Elysee ... areas where the chic, rich and famous are often seen sipping and shopping. Right by Tokyo station is Marunouchi, the financial district, laced with upmarket shops and restaurants, including a Joel Robuchon patisserie. I like this.
Apart from people watching, shopping and experiencing a splash of culture shock, my other interest here is the food.
With every second shop selling some kind of food item, be it sweet or savoury, I have found my heaven. The Japanese love their food too, and their quest for perfection is also reflected in their cuisine, with every meal demonstrating a perfect balance of flavours. There’s nothing overpowering ... just a mix of textures that keep the palate stimulated and wanting more.
Tokyo is a gastronomic capital which features meticulously prepared and presented specialties from all over Japan, including Osaka’s okonomiyaki (savoury pancake) and my favourite, Hokkaido’s diverse ramen (noodle soup) dishes.
One Tokyo ramen joint high on my list is Menya Musashi, in Shinjuku. Made popular by its strict policy of no female employees, patrons often line up for more than an hour before they are seated and fed.
In Japan’s world of super efficiency and convenience, many things come in vending machines, including food orders, and Menya Mushashi provided an example of how ordering food via such a machine worked.
Serving only two ramen options, miso or tsukemen (dipping option, involving dunking dried noodles in a bowl of sauce), patrons pick, pay and wait for a seat. While waiting (and eating), patrons are kept entertained by the busy open kitchen and masculine cheers from the cooks preparing the endless bowls of ramen.
An unspoken rule at eateries such as this is that you eat fast and leave. That, and the fact that some say ramen is unhealthy, may keep many young women away, but the pleasure I draw from every mouthful of my tsukemen will definitely see me back in Tokyo for seconds, thirds and fourths.
Disclosure: The writer was a guest of the Mercure Ginza.
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