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POSTED: 13 OCTOBER 2009

Ann Rickard finds luxury and history on the Greek island of Rhodes

If you sit in one of the many rooftop bars or cafes of Lindos, you can watch the line of stoic donkeys carrying tourists to the top of the hill to explore the Acropolis.

A natural citadel, the Acropolis was fortified by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, the Knights of St John and the Ottomans. Stand up there and listen to the mass of information given by one of the guides and you’ll be both impressed and confused. It’s a lot of history to take in.

Probably your attention will wander and the spectacular views of the coastline, the Aegean Sea and the surrounding harbours will blot everything else out.

Lindos is about 45 kilometres south of the old town of Rhodes. The ancient village — with its labyrinthine of narrow streets flanked by cafes, bars and shops — teems with tourists in the summer. Vehicles are not permitted in the village making strolling and browsing a pleasure, though you always have to be mindful of the patient donkeys clopping up behind you.

Most of the hotels are hidden in the rocky hill above the village, but one that peeps out is the Melenos Lindos Hotel, an oasis of luxury and style created with love and commitment by a local man, Michalis Melenos.

Set out on multi-levels, the property meanders prettily up and down the hill with views to the beach and over the gleaming blue sea.

Everywhere the eye turns there is bloom: purple bougainvillea climbs walls, blazing petunias spill from carved pots, basil and mint spring from Byzantine urns, an ancient olive tree grows in a Turkish pot. Lavender, jasmine and frangipani perfume the air. Every lovely thing that can be grown in this climate is portrayed in this hotel as a work of art.

Michalis, who lives on site, took 15 years to complete the property and has paid respect to the Lindian architecture with sandstone facades, paved pebble mosaics, carved motifs, painted wood ceilings.

The property gracefully unfurls as we enter. Charming visions are disclosed — a wisp of blue sea peeping through an arch, a luminous white yacht at anchor below, the cheeky colour of the beach umbrellas on the sand. Just walking to our room offers an unfolding of one stunning surprise after another.

“This was a rough stone building when I bought it,” Michalis said. “I had architect Anastasia Papaioanou help me and then an Australian, Donald Green, came in. When he became involved, that is where all the magic began. Everything you see here is as a result of Donald’s talent.”

Michalis is generous in his praise of Donald Green, an artist and designer. Obviously the two of them worked closely together on every uncompromising detail. The mix of Byzantine, medieval and Ottoman influences make for excitement and delight in every corner of the property.

When we had settled in to our villa, walked on the cool stone floor, bounced on the elevated bed beneath the white filmy net, examined the cloth lanterns, the engraved Turkish table, the embroidered wall hangings, when we had admired the hand-painted tiles and Haman bath in the large bathroom, used the Korres natural products, wrapped ourselves in the Italian towels, we had some understanding of Michalis’s passion for Greek history and culture melded with his 21st-century love of luxury.

That night, dinner in the hot summer air beneath strings of colourful lanterns was memorable — a salad of pistachio, rocket and figs; crispy prawns with feta mousse and tomato salsa; a giant bouillabaisse; lemon meringue pie. All made on site.

The next morning at breakfast on the upper terrace, beneath a trellis of jasmine, as we nibbled on freshly baked croissants, dipped into a small silver pot of homemade quince jam and contemplated a morning on the beach, we thought of pinching ourselves.

So elegant and luxurious is the Melenos Lindos Hotel, that it has been included in the portfolio of Small Luxury Hotels in the World.

Included in the property is a gift shop, an Aladdin’s cafe of treasures personally bought by Michalis in his travels to Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Turkmestan and other countries. His penchant for lovely things has filled the shop with unique jewellery, precious objects d’art and beautiful furniture pieces.

Melenos Lindos Hotel really is a place to treat yourself ... a beautiful village within a beautiful village.

Reservations can be made by calling 1800 251 958 (toll-free) or online at www.slh.com.