OZ BABY BOOMERS: EATS & DRINKS

Maybe it harks back to the 1960s when, as one of the Wyndham Scheme “bunnies”, I inadvertently helped reshape high school education in NSW, but I’ve never been averse to acting the guinea pig.

And so it was that I happily went along to the InterContinental Sydney’s Café Opera a few nights ago to be the first taster of the special Valentine’s Day degustation menu devised by Julien Pouteau, the restaurant’s very obviously talented and equally passionate Executive Sous Chef.

The only difference is that when the feast is held on Saturday 11 February and Tuesday 14 February it will be staged in the newly renovated Harbourview Room on the hotel’s 31st floor.

That presented no problem because it also provided us with the chance to experience the fabulous refurbishment of Café Opera which has become a truly stunning and arty dining venue.

The evening began with a glass of pink bubbly (Veuve Clicquot Rosé no less) and a delectable teaser of scallop-salmon-and-beetroot carpaccio almost painted onto the plate, topped with a palate-awakening dash of citrus sauce and a smattering of roasted sesame seeds that provided delightful texture.

It worked a treat. Suddenly I’d moved from merely anticipatory to ferociously hungry.

And then it was on to yellow-fin tuna seared in liquorice oil, then served on a slab of Himalayan rocksalt with mud crab claw, lemon curd and puffed rice. A subtle, intriguing dish we suggested could have done with just a little less saltiness. Suggestion noted by Julien, hopefully not with a dash of NaCl.

The dish was near perfectly matched by a glass from one of New Zealand’s most outstanding wineries — Villa Maria 2010 Private Bin Pinot Gris. The grape variety’s naturally slightly oily texture sat comfortably alongside that of the tuna, with both being foiled by the tartness of the lemon curd and the wine’s crisp acidity.

And often it is about texture, or mouthfeel as it’s sometimes termed. In this case the centrepiece was provided by the puffed rice, whose crispness helped put everything else into perspective.

Then, for me anyway, the highlight of the feast — confit maroon lobster (a large freshwater yabby from Margaret River in Western Australia’s extreme south-west) served with king brown mushroom, Tasmanian wakame and freshly shaved horseradish.

Wow! Food rarely gets better than this, all the flavours and textures seamlessly coming together as one in a beautifully constructed mouthful.

A little bit of questioning this time about the wine match and whether the Craiglee 2007 Chardonnay, from southern Victoria, wasn’t just a bit too big and domineering. Perhaps the lobster might have been a bit more comfortable with a blend of semillon and sauvignon blanc from its own backyard, perhaps Cape Mentelle’s much acclaimed version.

A mangosteen sorbet, with mango and mint chips, provided the mid-meal palate regenerator, its bright acidity providing an almost savoury rather than sweet edge.

The main event — chargrilled grass-fed beef tenderloin, paper-thin kalamata wafers and summer herbs — was a masterpiece, both in terms of flavour and towering, almost Gaudian presentation.

The Hollick Cabernet Merlot, from Coonawarra — thankfully completely dry rather than sweetened up like many versions of the blend — matched well, its brisk tannins dancing cheek to cheek with an excellent cut of rare beef.

The secret here is to vacuum seal the beef with the desired sauce, then oven-cook it very slowly and only at the last moment throw it on the grill to just sear it.

And to finish a shared dessert extravaganza of chocolate, marshmallow, icecream and mille feuille, accompanied by a luscious, but not a second cloying, Bimbadgen Estate 2006 Botrytis Semillon.

So what was the conclusion of this little guinea piggy? Let’s just say great food in a great venue. “Snort, snort!”

The hotel is offering three luxurious dining events on February 14, 2012 including a twilight high tea, degustation dinner and decadent buffet, with couples receiving a gift of deluxe Della Mano chocolate brownies to take home.

Served in the heritage surrounds of InterContinental Sydney’s Cortile lounge, the Valentine’s Day twilight high tea will see couples indulging in a range of delicious treats, including foie gras brioche, Pacific oyster tartare and chocolate ganache to a soundtrack of love songs by resident pianist Tony Williams. Afterwards, couples will be invited to the hotel’s exclusive Club InterContinental rooftop lounge, normally accessible only to Club guests, for a glass of champagne overlooking Sydney Harbour and the Botanic Gardens. The Valentine’s Day twilight high tea will be served from 6:00pm for $99 per person.

Valentines can enjoy a five-course degustation dinner with matching wines overlooking the Botanic Gardens in InterContinental Sydney’s newly renovated Harbour Room on level 31. Beginning with a glass of Veuve Cliquot Rose, the experience will see couples feasting on a French-inspired menu while they watch the sun set over famous Sydney landmarks from the glass-fronted venue. The degustation dinner will be served on Saturday February 11 and Tuesday February 14 for $155 per person.

Sweet-toothed sweethearts can surround themselves in house-made desserts with a Valentine’s Day buffet dining experience at InterContinental Sydney’s new Cafe Opera restaurant. Enjoy a glass of Moet & Chandon Rose on arrival and a buffet dinner selection of fresh lobster, sushi and sashimi, king crab, prawns and oysters. Complete the experience with a visit to the restaurant’s European-style dessert case of sumptuous sweets, including crème brulee pots, macarons, tarts and slices. Couples can dine in Cafe Opera’s main dining room or alfresco within the hotel’s sandstone arcades, for $99 per person.

For the ultimate romantic experience, spend a night in luxury in one of InterContinental Sydney’s VIP Club suites or guest rooms and enjoy spectacular views over Sydney Harbour with access to the exclusive rooftop Club InterContinental lounge. Available to Club guests, the lounge offers extensive complimentary twilight drinks and canapés, as well as a deluxe breakfast, morning and afternoon tea. Overnight stays are available from $475 per night.

NOTE: All restaurant reviews published by Oz Baby Boomers are based purely on quality of the food and the experience, and on the value offered. Our first task is always to work out what the restaurant aspires to ... to determine what it is trying to achieve. The second task is to assess how it lives up to those aspirations. In this context, the humblest, cheapest bistro can be as successful and praiseworthy as the most elegant, five-star, silver-service dining room.