A stunning selection of lace from the 16th to 20th centuries will be on show in the Lace in Fashion exhibition which will open on 23 July in the National Gallery of Victoria.

Including more than 50 works from the NGV Collection, along with several pieces on loan, the exhibition will explore two distinct types of lace: needle lace and bobbin lace.

Roger Leong, NGV’s Curator, International Fashion and Textiles, NGV said that right through the period, lace was fundamental to the changing fashions of the day.

“Lace was a textile that signified all that was luxurious, highly desirable and new,” he said.

“Throughout the 20th century, lace has been the subject of many revivals and interpretations, always creating a symbol of elegance and occasion.”

Originating in 16th-century, both needle and bobbin lace rely on fine handwork.

Needle lace is made using variations of the buttonhole stitch, while bobbin lace takes its name from the spools of carved wood or ivory around which the lace maker plaits, weaves or twists threads.

Paola DiTrocchio, NGV’s Assistant Curator, International Fashion and Textiles, said: “For more than 300 years lace was made by hand. It wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that machine-made laces began to dominate lace production, making lace affordable and ever present in women’s fashion.”

On display alongside the lace will be dresses by Parisian couture houses Balmain and Beer, as well as garments and portraits representing how lace was used in fashionable dress.

An outfit by contemporary Australian label MATERIALBYPRODUCT will be included in the exhibition, highlighting the use of lace in modern fashion design. Semi punchout top and skirt (2008) features a stencil made from a 1950s synthetic lace curtain, which is shown in contrast to Gustav Beer’s Dress (c1912) with a machine-lace bodice covered with sheer silk chiffon.

Frances Lindsay, NGV’s Deputy Director, said: “This exhibition celebrates the enchanting age-old tradition of lace making. From the delicate pieces of the 16th century to the stencilled lace pattern used in MATERIALBYPRODUCT’s work, this exhibition will introduce visitors to a fascinating component of the NGV Collection.”

Lace in Fashion will be on display at NGV International, St Kilda Road, Melbourne, from 23 July to 23 January. NGV International is open 10am–5pm, closed Tuesdays. Admission is free.

*Based on media release issued by National Gallery of Victoria.

Image caption: BALMAIN, Paris (couture house) est. 1945, Pierre BALMAIN (designer). France 1914–82 Dress c.1966, rayon, cotton (chemical lace), silk lining 110.5 cm (centre back), 43.0 cm (waist, flat) label: PIERRE BALMAIN Collection of Sir Roderick Carnegie, Melbourne